Further advice

Further advice

The paddock for rest days

10m x 10m are sufficient. Make a small gate with the tape and electrify it. If your horse is interested in the bark of the tree inside the fence that provides shade, protect it with tape that you will wrap around the trunk in a spiral and that will be electrified only at the beginning. Cut a Teflon cable Ref. 28, usually buried or suspended, between the tree and the fence. This way your horse, like you, will spend his rest day in the countryside... instead of spending it in a box or prison.

Your horse doesn't like getting into his van

Thanks to this small mobile paddock, you will be able to get your yearlings or difficult horses into the van! In an isolated location (away from other horses) on ground make a mini paddock as in the photo. It's advisable to isolate the tape from the van with Ref. 10V insulators (screw-in) or Ref. 10B insulators (with bolts) or Ref. 44V or Ref. 44B tensioners, if you use wide tape. Put food and water at the bottom of the van and leave your stubborn horse with this dilemma: eat and drink in the van, or go hungry and thirsty... Time is your ally... If your van is very noisy, some straw or a mat can muffle the noise.

Keeping dangerous fences away

We will use spacers to keep these fences away. The Ref.13U spacer consists of 2 very resistant steel rods that keep the insulator firmly in place by spacing it approximately 30cm from dangerous wires. The tips are inserted directly into the wooden post by hammer. The same model designed to anchor directly on wires or a net (Ref. 13L), should be positioned as close as possible to the post, so as not to make the tape sway. The Ref. 44U contact tensioner maintains the same distance (30 cm) from gates. The corner insulator Ref. 45U, also mounted on two pins, holds the wire at a distance of 30 cm from corners. Many prefer to mount Ref. 44U also at the corners, to be able to tension the tape better. In this way we space the tape from all types of fencing, wherever needed, preventing horses from going against existing fences. Two Ref. 13U spacers nailed next to each other allow you to create an electrified corridor 60 to 65 cm wide for particularly quarrelsome horses between two fences.

Having your horse at home

Subdivide a meadow that is too large: thanks to this system, you can have double or triple grass production. While your horses are in one of the paddocks, you will be able to fertilize the one that has just been used or you will be able to collect manure thus interrupting the parasite cycle. You can connect the shed, or the boxes that overlook the pasture, with corridors that lead to the paddock. Or you could build small enclosures around your boxes, and your horses can go in and out freely.

Keeping horses at livery

Many agricultural entrepreneurs, or even just enthusiasts, are now starting the conversion of their businesses, and creating horse boarding facilities. The problem of fencing arises: what is better than our impact-resistant tape? It is certainly the safest fencing, the most flexible and least expensive, both for maintenance and installation. Sometimes, even just moving and repositioning existing fixed fences is more expensive than buying our fences. Labour is an important cost.

For the breeder

With our system you will avoid all DANGEROUS FENCES, in fact one of the best results of our ten years of work with electric fences has been to have no more horses injured because of fences.

And if you already have an energizer

If it was manufactured before 1982, throw it away! Painful but mandatory! Before that date all energizers were high impedance electromagnetic, this means that at the first grass that touched the tape they were to ground and therefore no longer worked. Thanks to this short circuit, easily obtained, breeders rather than hunters, handled the electric wire attached to its functioning transformer. From 1982 onwards, most energizers became low impedance electronic.

You don't need to close the circuit

You don't have to close the circuit, that is, you don't have to make the tape go back and forth to the energizer. It's not important! It's the horse that closes the circuit (ground/phase)! It's possible if for convenience you want to do it, but it's not essential, the only thing you will get is that the current will go right and left and "meet" at the other end. Never attach two energizers to the same fence! The sum of the two pulses would lead to the cancellation of the legal interval that exists between one pulse and the other (1 hertz). Don't use small electric wires, of other brands to carry the current to our impact-resistant tape! The result is similar to someone who wants to create a stream with the water hose from home.

Fences and Paddocks

Large paddock with catching pen

If the paddock is too large and you can never catch the horse, it's not fun if he keeps running away when we approach: he's playing!
To avoid this, make a small enclosure on one of the corners, and get in the habit of always bringing him water and food there, obviously with the gate made up of Ref. 11 handles always open; to catch your horse then will be easier: he won't have all the ground to run away and think that everything is done with 6 Ref. 44V and two Ref. 11 handles.

Corridor for heat detection

Build adjoining paddocks, not too large, with 4 cm impact-resistant tape at two heights. Build the same thing on the other side, leaving a 6m wide corridor in the center. Block this corridor at the ends with tape arranged at 2 heights and create gates at each end so as to obtain another central paddock, adjacent to all the paddocks where you will leave a gelding. Insert mares to test heat. By observing your mares, you will see them become interested in this gelding as their heat increases. This whole little world, in maximum safety, will communicate very interesting information to you. This will save you time on heat checking and your gelding will be, despite himself, the pimp of the mares. The same fence system will give you the possibility of putting all the horses out, away from the box in rotation and thanks to the central corridor to manage them easily. Leave a gelding in the central aisle of a fence built this way and it will give you the possibility to understand who is in heat, of the mares you will have put in the small paddocks on the sides.

If then from the start you leave the foals with their mothers inside such small enclosures, when they go into the large paddocks they will know the fence very well, avoiding bad experiences away from your eyes.

A fence for trekking

Here is an excellent example of a fence with little material but with excellent results.

A Ref. E14, a few Ref. 8N insulators on Ref. 7B posts, a few cable ties and some string to temporarily fix the corners still made with Ref. 7B+Ref. 8N poles to the trees, without disfiguring them with nails or anything else.

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